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Last Updated:
6/15/2020 12:45 PM

Thank You For Adopting Your New Best Friend.
Rompin Paws Rescue


We have put together some basic but important feeding guidelines to help your pet have the most vital, healthy, and disease-free life possible.  We sincerely hope you continue to feed your new pet the food we have been giving them and keep up with the healthiest foods available for the rest of their lives.    
We promise you won't be sorry and your wallet will thank you when the only thing your dog needs to the vet are vaccinations and teeth cleaning.
To begin,
We highly recommend these two blog links from Whole Dog Journal (they have a cost associated with them)

ADOPTING A DOG THE RIGHT WAY                                                                                                                            https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/product/adopting-a-dog-the-right-way/

NEW DOG- EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED                                                                                          https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/product/bringing-home-a-new-dog-what-to-do-and-not-do/

INTRODUCING A DOG INTO A CAT HOUSEHOLD:                                                          https://www.paws.org/library/cats/home-life/introducing-cat-to-dog/
This is an email subscription to a well known naturopathic veterinarians blog (free)                    Dr. Becker is awesome:  

Subscribe to this site for a complete reference to more hea lth questions at your fingertips:     http://www.organic-pet-digest.com


Preparing to bring your new dog home
Having the right supplies and food on hand will help make the transition easy for you and your new family member. 
A smooth transition will   minimize the chances of stress-induced behavioral issues developing.
Here is a checklist of items we recommend having prior to bringing your new dog home
  • Dog food: Per the recommendations:  The Honest Kitchen " No Grain Chicken or Beef "  is good starter food. They receive this at the rescue.
  • Nongluten, natural meat or freeze-dried dog treats (training)
  • Dog Chews and Toys:  Nontoxic rubber toys, toys that can handle chewing but have no stuffing, Split deer antlers (Not recommended: raw hides, hard bones)
  • Water and Food Bowls:  Stainless steel or Ceramic bowls (will not hold bacteria when washed in hot soap and water)
  • Bed and Blankets:  There are also organic beds on the market, non-toxic, long-lasting      http://products.mercola.com/healthypets/pet-beds/?
  • Poo clean-up bags
  • Harness/leash for walks, collar to hang tags on.  The website for the best harness I have found yet-   https://puglifeharness.com/
  • Name tag for the collar
  • Grooming tools
  • Enzymatic stain remover for those "Little Accidents"
  • Travel crate to pick up your new dog and for veterinary trips and to help your new dog adjust to car rides
  • Natural, non-toxic, dog shampoo
  • Natural flea prevention such as edible diatomaceous earth
  • Pea pads: washable-   https://www.ebay.com/usr/vrc-store?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754
Introducing a new dog into a Home with existing dogs or other animals
This article will help you with finding a compatible dog for your existing dog and help you with proper introductions.  Please read thoroughly before deciding on a new dog and before introducing to your dog.
Dealing With Separation Anxiety-  Helping your dog to overcome
What To Expect When You Bring Home Your New Rescue Dog:  Excerpt from Petfinder.com

Tips for the First 30 Days of Dog Adoption

The first few days in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your new dog will be confused about where he is and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount in making as smooth a transition as possible.

Before You Bring Your Dog Home:

Tips for the First 30 Days of Dog Adoption


  • Determine where your dog will be spending most of his time. Because he will be under a lot of stress with the change of environment (from a  shelter  or foster home to your house), he may forget any housebreaking (if any) he’s learned. Often a kitchen will work best for easy clean-up.
  • If you plan on crate training your dog, be sure to have a crate set-up and ready to go for when you bring your new dog home. Find out more about crate training your dog.
  • Dog-proof the area where your pooch will spend most of his time during the first few months. This may mean taping loose electrical cords to baseboards; storing household chemicals on high shelves; removing plants, rugs, and breakables; setting up the crate, and installing baby gates.
  • Training your dog will start the first moment you have him. Take time to create a vocabulary list everyone will use when giving your dog directions. This will help prevent confusion and help your dog learn his commands more quickly. Not sure which commands to use? Check out How to Talk to Your Dog.
  • Bring an ID tag with your phone number on it with you when you pick up your dog so that he has an extra measure of safety for the ride home and the first few uneasy days. If he is microchipped, be sure to register your contact information with the chip’s company, if the rescue or shelter did not already do so.

First Day:

  • We know moving is stressful — and your new dog feels the same way! Give him time to acclimate to your home and family before introducing him to strangers. Make sure children know how to approach the dog without overwhelming him. Go here for more on introducing dogs and children.
  • When you pick up your dog, remember to ask what and when he was fed. Replicate that schedule for at least the first few days to avoid gastric distress. If you wish to switch to a different brand, do so over a period of about a week by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days; then switch to half new food, half old, and then one part old to three parts new. For more information about your dog’s diet, check out our section on Dog Nutrition.
  • On the way home, your dog should be safely secured, preferably in a crate. Some dogs find car trips stressful, so having him in a safe place will make the trip home easier on him and you.
  • Once home, take him to his toileting area immediately and spend a good amount of time with him so he will get used to the area and relieve himself. Even if your dog does relieve himself during this time, be prepared for accidents. Coming into a new home with new people, new smells and new sounds can throw even the most housebroken dog off-track, so be ready just in case. Need more housetraining tips? Check out our Dog Housetraining section.
  • If you plan on crate training your dog, leave the crate open so that he can go in whenever he feels like it in case he gets overwhelmed. Also, be sure to check out the dos and don’ts of crate training your dog.
  • From there, start your schedule of feeding, toileting, and play/exercise. From Day One, your dog will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement. Don’t give in and comfort him if he whines when left alone. Instead, give him attention for good behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly (Source: Preparing Your Home For A New Dog).
  • For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your dog, limiting too much excitement (such as the dog park or neighborhood children). Not only will this allow your dog to settle in easier, but it will also give you more one-on-one time to get to know him and his likes/dislikes.
  • If he came from another home, objects like leashes, hands, rolled-up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs, and sticks are just some of the pieces of “training equipment” that may have been used on this dog. Words like “come here” and “lie down” may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expect. Or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations that will require patience on your part.

Following Weeks:

  • People often say they don’t see their dog’s true personality until several weeks after adoption. Your dog may be a bit uneasy at first as he gets to know you. Be patient and understanding while also keeping to the schedule you intend to maintain for feeding, walks, etc. This schedule will show your dog what is expected of him as well as what he can expect from you.
  • After discussing it with your veterinarian to ensure your dog has all the necessary vaccines, you may wish to take your dog to group training classes or the dog park. Pay close attention to your dog’s body language to be sure he’s having a good time — and is not fearful or a dog park bully. If you’re unsure of what signs to watch for, check out this video on safety at the dog park.
  • To have a long and happy life together with your dog, stick to the original schedule you created, ensuring your dog always has the food, potty time, and attention he needs. You’ll be bonded in no time! For more information on creating a feeding schedule for your dog visit How Often Should You Feed Your Dog?
  • If you encounter behavior issues you are unfamiliar with, ask your veterinarian for a trainer recommendation. Select a trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques to help you and your dog overcome these behavior obstacles. Visit Dog Training for more information on reward-based training.

Congratulations! If you follow these tips, you’ll be on your way to having a well-adjusted canine family member.

First Trip To The Vet
Vet clinics are a for-profit business and profit is what they are trying to make at each appt.
  • DO NOT buy 1x a month parasite treatments!!  (They are pesticides and can kill your dog
  • DO NOT let them give you samples to try ( They are pesticides and thousands of dogs are dying every day from these samples) I belong to a Facebook page where daily people post their stories of dogs dying from these flea/tick/parasite meds vets push on their clients.
  • ASK the vet to examine his teeth and see if he/she recommends teeth cleaning. If so, keeping them clean the rest of their life is easy enough
  • Bring a fecal sample-Fresh with you and have it tested for worms/giardia and coccidia- further on in this guide you will see I recommend picking up "safeguard" goat wormer and dosing 1x a month for 5 days. It's heaps cheaper than the same stuff the vet will sell you.
  • DO let him give the dog a general exam
  • Do pick up some enzyme toothpaste and a small dog brush
Go online and purchase dog dental spray- TRUE DOG is No. 1
Spray your dogs' teeth every day and brush their teeth a couple of times a week. 
Dog Food


Like us, dogs need quality nutrition to maintain optimal health and well-being.  Sure, they’ll happily eat the cheap stuff that’s loaded with fillers, sugars, grains, and by-products. (Wouldn’t your kids prefer candy, potato chips, and hotdogs if left to choose for themselves?) But if you really want to maximize your dog’s potential - and coincidentally, minimize your poop scooping quantity - do some research and purchase the best dog food your budget can sustain. Studies show that switching to higher quality food can add up to two years to your dog’s life! (that's 14 extra years to a dog).  And be sure to incorporate a variety of  fresh foods  into your pet's diet, too. Blueberries, chia, and hemp seeds in coconut oil, raw pumpkin seeds, fermented vegetables,  and  kefir can provide your furry family member with a variety of nutrition and flavors.  The link below is to an article that says why 99% of dog foods are FAKE.

PLEASE READ these critically important articles as an intro to what is wrong with mainstream pet foods



Quoted from Dr. Karen Shaw Becker Naturopathic Veterinarian

I recommend pet parents ditch dry food entirely and instead feed a  balanced, species-appropriate diet  to your pet. Regardless of her weight, your pet needs the right nutrition for her species, which means food that is high in high-quality animal protein and moisture, healthy fats, and fiber, with low to no starch content.

nutritionally balanced raw or gently cooked homemade diet  is the top choice for pets, but you should only attempt this if you're committed to doing it right. If you don't want to deal with balancing diets at home, choosing to feed a pre-balanced, commercially available raw food is a great choice.

A freeze-dried/dehydrated diet is second best. Human-grade canned food is a mid-range choice, but hard to find, followed by premium canned food. Avoid semi-moist pouches, as most are made with an unhealthy chemical called propylene glycol.

Remember, too, that you can  incorporate fresh foods into your pet's diet  as treats. Blueberries, chia seeds in coconut oil, banana slices, raw pumpkin seeds,  and  even fermented vegetables and kefir make great fresh-food snacks and provide your pet with a variety of nutrition and flavors.

If you're transitioning your pet over from a dry food diet, do so gradually. It may take your pet time to get used to the new healthier diet, but in many  cases,  you'll find even your dog grows to love it and you'll love the health benefits (and smaller vet bills) from feeding a fresh, species-appropriate diet.

Here's a great article to start with:   http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2017/07/22/veterinarians-dislike-discussing-pet-diets.aspx? 


* Please note:  Dogs cannot live Healthily on Dry dog food (kibble). There is not enough nutrition to support your beloved pet.  Also, it is not nearly as economical as   The Honest Kitchen, or A Raw Food diet, whose cost per serving is less expensive yet offers complete nutrition.  
**Also note, most mainstream brands such as Iams, Purina, Pedigree, Rachel Ray, Fresh Pet, and no-name brands Get their "meat protein" from farm animals that died and were unfit for human consumption as well as all the animals Euthanized in shelters. These animals are rendered down and used in kibble and listed as meat protein or animal protein on the packaging. It can also be found in poor quality canned dog food products such as Alpo, Iams, etc...
Rompin Paws Rescue feeds ALL adult dogs and puppies a Variety of the listed foods below.
The optimal diet to keep your dog free of allergies and from becoming bored is to feed a rotational diet. I.E, mix it up. Having a variety of Human Grade and Raw foods plus some healthy treats on hand, avoids  boredom  of the palate and unwillingness to eat. Variety helps prevent allergies. and provides an opportunity to cover all the micronutrients a dog may need while creating a very happy and healthy dog. Mix and match for fun, flavor, and maximum health. We have provided 6 excellent companies to purchase to mix and match and offer a wide variety of flavors and textures for your pooch. Like humans, different dogs prefer different things.
1. The Honest Kitchen Dog Food
   The Honest Kitchen:     http://www.thehonestkitchen.com
      The Honest Kitchen reviews:   http://www.thehonestkitchen.com/review/product/list/id/43/
The Honest Kitchen will give you the best bang for your dollar.  It is complete nutrition, no waste and the dogs only need a small portion (follow box) to be Full, Happy, and Healthy.  Just add Hot tap water, do not cook.          The per-serving cost is less than the inferior foods as a small amount goes a long way.  (I.E you need to feed them a lot less of this food to give them superior nutrition the other foods can't come close to providing). Good nutrition means a happy, healthy, correct weight dog with good energy and less chance of developing cancer, skin problems or crippling diseases.
We Favor the grain-free Chicken or Beef flavors to start as they seem to like it best when first introduced to these new foods (we always add an oil every day to the meals. we add Flax Or coconut oil to the morning meal and a fish or salmon oil to the evening meals).
i s a Canadian company who now has a Washington based facility. We love their products. They are more expensive than The Honest Kitchen- However,  it's a nice substitute food for the dogs to have on occasion, so they have a variety, or if your budget can sustain it, this is an awesome food to feed longterm. again we prefer the grain-free and raw varieties.
3 Steves Freeze-dried dog food Awesome for young puppies. I also add it to the Honest kitchen to mix things up a bit and I especially use it to entice sick animals we rescue. Sold on Amazon, some pet food stores.      https://www.stevesrealfood.com/frozen-raw-dog-food/freeze-dried-pet-food/
4.  Tylees  Frozen Raw Dog Food                                                                                                          https://www.chewy.com/tylees-human-grade-beef-recipe-frozen/dp/135799
5. Darwins Raw    https://www.darwinsp 
The above freeze-dried and dehydrated raw foods can be found at Local PET FOOD STORES, such as MudBay, Pet Pros, All The Best, Next To Nature and other family-run pet food suppliers.  You Will Not find these high-quality foods at Petco/Petsmart or a Grocery store.  
If you don't have a well-run pet food supply store in your area, you may want to order pet foods shipped on a regular basis from  http://www.chewy.com/  
Receive a 20% discount on your first order if you set up an auto-ship and 5% discount thereafter on all  auto ships
Amazon.com carries The Honest Kitchen, Sojos, Steves, and many others
   a. OILS are critical to the health of your dogs' skin and fur but also keeps their joints lubricated and lessens free radicals depositing in the joints that cause arthritis.  Start them  on  oils while young or as soon as you adopt by adding daily to their wet foods.  I mix it up. Primarily my dogs receive salmon oils from Alaska, but I also add Olive oils, coconut oil, or Flaxseed oil to their food as each oil contains different micronutrients for overall health.  Dogs need Omega 3's and only the fish oils contain enough Omega Threes for healthy coat, skin, and heart health.
b.  MICRONUTRIENTS  can be delivered through an  Organic Norwegian Kelp.  Kelp offer pets over 70 critical micronutrients and minerals
       Awesome for joint health and overall wellness. Add 1 tbs to each meal.  
       1Organic Kelp - 1.5 lb bags for under $9.00 are sold on Chewy.com
       2. Dogzymes Probiotic Max- 3 sizes - Chewy.com or Amazon
   c. JOINT SUPPLEMENTS:  All of our rescue dogs go on these two supplements immediately and I keep them on them for life. Your dog will benefit from them as well.
  1. Animed  Products: Aniflex complete
  2. Animed  Products: Muscle-up    Purchase at www.valleyvet.com   best prices I have seen so far and better than Amazon.

  These are made for horses, vet-approved for dogs     

Just a 1/8-1/4 tsp every day mixed with their Human Grade wet food and you will have a dog-free of joint issues their entire life. My Shepard tore his knee up at 2 yrs old, that's how I found these products. I healed the knee over the course of a year and he has been problem-free since and is 10 years old now. starting them immediately will help prevent any tears.

THIS IS A SIMPLIFIED DAILY MENU- Each Meal (2x a day, Puppies 3x-4x a day) 
  1. One serving of The Human Grade Dog Food and Hot water (or Raw Diet food)
  2. Add One tablespoon of Coconut or Flax or Fish oil  (we use Coconut or Flax in the morning and Fish at nite)
  3. Add one Tablespoon of Organic Norwegian Kelp/dog
  4. Add 1 teaspoon pro-biotic
  5. Muscle up and Aniflex Complete for older, large, and long spine dogs, just 1/8 tsp for small dogs-50lbs. 1/4 tsp each for dogs 50-150lbs
  6. Puppies (goat milk 2x a day) Trader Joe's sells fresh in the fridge

Some optional items for variety may include:

  • Roasted chicken
  • Warm goat milk
  • Canned or fresh pumpkin-organic
  • Organic baby food
  • Sodium free chicken broth
  • Kefir
  • Yogurt
  • Pumpkin seeds, chia seeds
  • hard-boiled eggs
Detailed Information On Dog Food and Species-Specific Feeding

Puppy Diet

Good nutrition from day one is a cornerstone to total health, and it’s important to understand how a growing puppy’s needs differ from that of an adult dog. Puppies require proportionately more calories to support proper growth and development. Ideally, most of those calories should come from protein and fat. But puppies shouldn’t be overfed to the point of gaining excess body weight. They should be fed a sufficient amount to retain a lean figure and maintain a visible ‘waist’ as they develop and mature.

It’s important to remember that each animal is an individual, and your puppy may have quite different needs (or appetite) from his littermates. Also, for larger breeds in particular who can appear to have grown half an inch after a simple afternoon nap, their requirements may adjust from day to day. The key is to allow your puppy to guide you. Keep a close eye on his body weight and feed enough to keep him lean but not ‘ribby’, and certainly not too plump.

Meal Times

Puppies also need to eat more frequently than adult dogs. Four meals a day are often necessary for very young pups and even an eight-week-old puppy will likely consume three daily meals at least for the first few weeks in his new home. It’s important to ensure your schedule can accommodate this lunchtime meal for the first few weeks, or make alternative arrangements if needed.

Mineral Needs

Puppies also have slightly different mineral needs from those of adult dogs. Calcium and phosphorus levels are especially important. Not only are the actual amounts important, but also the ratios of one to the other. The diet should contain between 1:1 and 2:1 parts calcium to phosphorus. Excessive amounts of calcium should be avoided in large and giant breed pups because of their increased propensity to develop bone and joint problems. That said, it’s important not to get too obsessed with the minute percentages of minerals your pet consumes. A little piece of banana, a scoop of yogurt, or a hard-boiled egg, here and there, will not throw off your pet’s nutrient balance!  Unfortunately, many of the big-industry pet food companies caution against mixing any sort of ‘people food’ (also known as real food) with their commercial products. The reason? They want pet guardians to feed as much of their product as possible. If you supplement with your own ingredients, you’ll likely feed less of their food, which means less money in their pockets.


In addition to feeding a healthy diet, it’s important to feed only good quality natural treats to your puppy, for rewards and training. Extra nutritional supplements are not usually necessary unless your vet or breeder recommends them for your particular dog. Raw beef marrow bones (also called ‘soup bones’) make an excellent treat between meals. Your puppy will not actually eat these, but gnaw on them in delight! These are available from many supermarkets and will help with teething and also keep adult dogs’ teeth clean and sparkling white, as well as helping to reduce the risk of periodontal disease.

Large Breeds

For large and giant-breed puppies, it’s particularly important not to over-feed or provide too many calories, especially during rapid growth periods, because this can lead the pup to grow too fast, which may result in developmental bone and joint problems later in life. Your veterinarian or breeder can provide guidelines for this.

Larger breeds tend to be able to transition to adult food sooner (some breeders of large and giant breed dogs recommend phasing in adult food for their puppies at around four to five months of age) whereas small breeders typically have a faster metabolic rate and can benefit from staying on a more calorie-dense, puppy formula for much longer, up to one or even two years of age. Decisions about this will be based in part on breeder recommendations and the individual dog’s specific requirements, which also vary according to his lifestyle.

    Expert Support

    It’s important to have a holistic pet partner in your pet’s first years. Natural rearing breeders and holistic veterinarians are usually just a quick phone call away. Resources that The Honest Kitchen trusts are:

    The benefits of a good, wholesome, natural diet are numerous. The consumption of a minimally processed diet is commonly associated with increased strength and vitality, ‘happy’ eyes and freedom from chronic skin health problems such as dry skin, excessive scratching, ear infections, and digestive problems. Starting your puppy off right, with common sense approach to nutrition and a nourishing, biologically appropriate diet can set her up for a lifetime of great health.

    The Honest Kitchen’s   Grain-Free Turkey Grain-Free Beef Limited Ingredient Fish ,   Limited Ingredient Chicken Whole Grain Chicken  are all suitable for puppies, and dogs of all life 

    Puppies need a quality source of Calcium, every day to support teeth and bone growth as well as good organ growth. We recommend Goats milk, which naturally contains pre and probiotics for gut health.  A dog's long-term health (and humans) starts in the gut. The above foods are absolutely the best you can buy and the biggest bang for the buck in terms of good nutrition.  Goats milk is SOLID GOLD!!  By adding this to your puppy's dehydrated foods every day, or served on its own, you keep their growing intestinal health and bones at optimal levels.  If your dog is ever looking sluggish, try goats milk and keep a jar of pre-biotics on hand to add to their food (found in pet food stores, chewy.comamazon.com).  
    This is an article on growing pains in the bones, nutrition and how to help your dog NOT develop deformities during this critical period


    PLEASE READ THESE ARTICLES for more in-depth information on ingredients in Pet food:    






    Discussion of euthanized animals (dogs, cats) in our pet foods







    Healthy pet food ingredient articles 








    One of the Biggest Mistakes Pet Owners Make That Cuts Lives Short



    • Pet obesity rates in the U.S. increased yet again in 2017 — 56 percent of dogs and 60 percent of cats are now overweight or obese
    • Obesity leads to a long list of serious, debilitating conditions in both cats and dogs; it also shortens their lives and compromises their quality of life
    • If your pet is too heavy, it’s important to calculate how many calories she should eat each day, and serve portion-controlled, high-quality, fresh food meals that keep her well-nourished as she loses weight
    • Daily exercise is also an absolute must for weight loss in dogs and cats
    __________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________ ____


    Socializing Your New Dog
    How Long Is  Too  Long to Leave Your Dog Alone?
    Lonely Dog
    Story at-a-glance
    A question every loving dog parent should ask is, “How long is too long to leave my dog alone?”
    Dogs left alone for several hours each day can suffer from isolation distress
    Two rules of thumb: 10 to 12 hours is too long to leave a dog alone, and dogs need to have an opportunity to relieve themselves every four to six hours
    Crate training your dog is recommended, but leaving him confined to his crate all day is something he absolutely doesn’t deserve
    There are many options that will limit your dog’s time at home alone, including doggy daycare, a dog walker or sitter, and/or working from home or taking your dog to work with you
    Training Your New Dog/Obedience Training Classes
    Rompin Paws Rescue Does Not Recommend Clicker Training:                                      http://samthedogtrainer.com/articles/why-i-don%E2%80%99t-believe-in-clicker-training/
    Adopting a Puppy? You will want to review these articles and watch the video:   
    PER Your Contract with Rompin Paws Rescue, Your dog must be enrolled in training classes the first week of adoption to maximize the window of opportunity.

    The Benefits of Training

    The benefits of having a trained dog are nearly limitless! From the moment you get your new puppy or dog, here’s a run-down of just some of the advantages and benefits:

    Benefits of Dog Training:

    • Puppy classes provide the opportunity for getting your new family member started off right. Puppy classes provide the experiences and opportunities for your puppy to develop interaction skills with other puppies, with people, and in new environments.
    • Puppy socialization has been found to be critical to the psychological health of adult dogs. Puppy classes provide the opportunity for this important facet of your puppy’s upbringing.
    • Training classes provide dog owners the skills and knowledge for dealing with common, normal dog behaviors—starting with puppy behaviors such as housetraining and chewing.
    • No matter what age you start training your dog, foundation training provides the basis for any activity, behavior or job you want your dog to do.
    • Training provides dogs with the basic good manners we all want—from the polite greeting when guests arrive, to walking nicely on the leash, to coming when called.
    • A trained dog is a fully participating member of the family—what a gift for all of you!

          A trained dog joins in the fun when company comes, accompanies the family to the kids’ sports games, goes with you to visit friends and relatives, goes for hikes,              swims, everything else the family does together.

    • Training enables you to choose from among a broad range of activities and dog sports to participate in and enjoy with your dog such as dog agility, Rally-obedience, dancing with your dog, tracking, search & rescue, skiing, sledding, water rescue trials, obedience, carting, reading programs, therapy work, and a nearly endless range of fun and philanthropic things to do!
    • Training has been shown to be the single most important thing that keeps a dog in his or her “forever” home.
    • Training builds your mutual bond, enhances the partnership and enriches the relationship you share with your dog. Is there anything better?
    • Having a trained dog is a joy for both you and your dog!
    Crate Training
    A crate can become a dog's best friend if used correctly.  By allowing the dog to use a crate as a bed, it becomes a dogs' "safe space".  Then if there is an emergency and you need to bug out, say for an earthquake, your dog already feels safe in a crate and will be easier to load quickly.
    Dog crates are 
    too  often  abused.  The recommended maximum time to  "lock"  a dog inside a crate is  two hours.  
    To train a dog to his/her new crate, simply leave a crate with the door open and provide clean comfortable bedding. Begin with 15 minutes with the door completely closed, then open, then 1/2 hour and up to an hour. Encourage pup to go inside when  door  is open with a toy or a treat and lie down.  Eventually, you will be able to give a command, "Puppy, go to your crate now", and they will.  Make the crate a Happy Place!
    Articles discussing crate abuse
    Pee Pads, litterbox training your dog and Housebreaking
    We train the dogs to pee pads while inside. You can purchase really good washable pads used for bedridden humans at Amazon, they can handle a lot of washings-use the gentle cycle if using a top-loading washer.   Did you know? Can you also train puppies and small breed puppies/dogs to use a litterbox?  Also, see the links to an article on the 4 proven methods of housebreaking a dog at any age, and creating a "doggie litter box"
    This company on E-Bay sells washable pee pads recycled from hospitals, in 10, 20 and 30 quantity deliveries-   
    2. Check out this indoor Pee/Poo pad that is self-cleaning and makes leaving your dog for a few hours- worry-free
    3. Puppy Training Schedule, What to teach your puppy and when
    Please Note: We do not recommend working with or training your dog to a clicker method.
    A dog needs to learn how to work with and read your body language and voice tones and you read your dog. clicker trainers are not behavior modifiers.  You need to have  your dog under complete voice control at all times and the dog responds instantly. this will not happen with clicker training. You are not going to have time to get a clicker out and get your dog to respond to an emergency. Please go to a well-known and reputable dog school for all training.  If you need assistance, we will be happy to send you recommendations.
    He re is ANOTHER:  dog trainers point of view

    Clickers can’t replace a human voice…. And…. food can’t replace human praise…. Dogs need leadership and not tricks, bribery, or psycho-babble. Surely a LEADER should be seen as more than a TEMPORARY INCONVENIENCE and a REFRIGERATOR. Dogs bond with humans, not toys or treats. ( You feed your dog every day….Why doesn’t he obey you?)

    Dogs will respond to food as a natural drive, but that doesn’t equate to obedience. It equates to only doing something if there is a reward. You want a dog that wants to follow you, not your full hand.

    Dogs want to belong to a “pack” and need to find a leader who keeps things simple, clear, calm and assertive.

    THERE ARE NO BAD DOGS….., only dogs trying to make it through life in a human world with behaviors that are part of their genetics until exposed to behavior that we expect from them.

    Dogs don’t purposely do things to annoy us. They just do things that they do without making a value judgment about whether it is bad or good, or destructive or annoying. They don’t know the difference until they are shown the difference in a clear, concise, consistent, and praise-rewarded way.

    Here is a website to help you develop a training schedule for your new Puppy
    Here is an invaluable website for training:  
    One Adopter put it recently   I also wanted to say, thank you for encouraging puppy classes, you don't know what you don't know, right? I have already learned SO much, met some amazing people and new furry friends."
    Planning for your pets, should you become incapacitated or die   
    We highly recommend that you and your spouse or family develop and have a plan in place for your pet should anything happen to you.  
    Here are two links to get you motivated, and to help you develop a trust for your animals.
    Below please find a link to our Providing for Your Pet’s Future Without You factsheet. This fact sheet provides advice on including pet trust information in a trust (recommended) or will. Washington is one of 44 jurisdictions that have enacted pet trust legislation. The HSUS has put this together to help ensure your dogs will continue to receive care if you are unable to do so.
    http://www.humanesociety.org/ assets/pdfs/pets/pets_in_ wills_factsheet.pdf
    WHY?  As a rescue, we can attest to the number of dogs placed into kill shelters, by a family member, when a person/parent/grandparent dies. The deceased had assumed the family would care for their pets and typically, that is not the case. It is sad to watch an animal become depressed on a concrete floor, giving up, not only because it's the owner has passed away, but now that dog is in a noisy, crowded shelter and likely will be PTD as well. The animal closes down, a ball of fear, and even if rescued is scarred for the rest of its life.
    leaving your new puppy alone while you work or run errands.
    Please take the time to read this article, it  is excellent, and applies to most young puppies and dogs: 
    General Care Tips
    The Labrador site run by Pippa Mattinson offers some great and practical tips an caring for your rescued dog
    A. Dog Beds
    What we use here at the rescue for durability and comfort-  https://kuranda.com
    Best price for comfy beds- Costco
    B. Food Bowls:   Use stainless steel -they don't hold bacteria.  If you can, Purchase food bowl holders appropriate for their height, they won't crush their esophagus.
    C. Leashes and Collars and Harnesses
    We recommend solid leads and harnesses to walk your pup. use the collar for hanging I.D and rabies tags only 
    Please DO NOT Purchase retractable leashes-  Only Use solid leashes 

    10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash

    1 The  length of retractable leashes, some of which can extend up to 26 feet, allows dogs to get far enough away from their humans that a situation can quickly turn dangerous. A dog on a retractable leash is often able to run into the middle of the street, for example, or make uninvited contact with other dogs or people.

    2 In  the above  scenario  or one in which your pet is being approached by an aggressive dog, it is nearly impossible to get control of the situation if the need arises. It's much easier to regain control of – or protect -- a dog at the end of a six-foot standard flat leash than it is if he's 20 or so feet away at the end of what amounts to a thin string.

    3 The  thin cord of a retractable leash can break – especially when a powerful dog is on the other end of it. If a strong, good-sized dog takes off at full speed, the cord can snap. Not only can that put the dog and whatever he may be chasing in danger, but also the cord can snap back and injure the human at the other end.

    4 If  a dog walker gets tangled up in the cord of a retractable  leash  or grabs it in an attempt to reel in their dog, it can result in burns, cuts, and even amputation. In addition, many people have been pulled right off their feet by a dog that reaches the end of the leash and keeps going. This can result in bruises, "road rash," broken bones, and worse.

    5 Dogs  have also received terrible injuries as a result of the sudden jerk on their neck that occurs when they run out the leash, including neck wounds, lacerated tracheas, and injuries to the spine.

    6 Retractable  leashes allow dogs more freedom to pull at the end of them, which can look like aggression to another dog who may decide to "fight back."

    7 The  handles of retractable leashes are bulky and can be easily pulled out of human hands, resulting in a runaway dog.

    8 Along  those same lines, many dogs – especially fearful ones – are terrorized by the sound of a dropped retractable leash handle and may take off running, which is dangerous enough. To make matters worse, the object of the poor dog's fear is then "chasing" her, and if the leash is retracting as she runs, the handle is gaining ground on her – she can't escape it. Even if this scenario ultimately ends without physical harm to the dog (or anyone else), it can create lingering fear in the dog not only of leashes but also of being walked.

    9 Retractable  leashes, like most retractable devices, have a tendency to malfunction over time, either refusing to extend, refusing to retract, or unspooling at will.

    10 Retractable  leashes are an especially bad idea for dogs that haven't been trained to walk politely on a regular leash. By their very nature, retractables train dogs to pull while on leash, because they learn that pulling extends the lead.

    If your dog is well trained, gentle-mannered and smart enough to master a regular leash and a retractable leash without being confused, you could be one of the rare guardians that can walk your pooch on any kind of leash without increasing risks to either one of you.

    Best two Harness' we have found yet. Great websites:   https://puglifeharness.com/          https://www.wonderwalkerbodyhalter.com/
    1. Dogs should be walked on a harness and leash and not by the collar.  A harness allows you to secure the dog with less chance it will slip out and run away during an emergency or if the dog becomes frightened.  Be sure the harness fits snuggly and test to be sure dog cannot slip out. You can also lift a dog up by a well-fitting harness in an emergency.
    2. A collar should have an identifying tag, rabies tag, and Microchip tag, and local dog License tag to help you recover if  dog  is ever lost/stolen
    3. Rompin Paws Rescue DOES NOT recommend the retractable leashes as they are extremely dangerous.  see article-  
    D.  Dog toys and chews
    PLEASE, Never give your dog Rawhide Chews.  They are not digestible and can cause a gastric blockage that will require dangerous and costly surgery.
    1. Sticking with American made products such as West Paw whose toys are non-toxic, is the safest bet.  Puppies will do best with rubber toys, stay away from stuffed toys and ones with noisemakers. big breed dogs will just tear them open and can swallow the innards causing a gastric blockage -requiring surgery to save their life.
    2. Dogs love Deer/Elk antlers and the chewing releases minerals that are great for all dogs. 
    PLEASE, do not feed your dog animal bones, especially beef and especially cooked. cooked bones splinter and raw beef bones can wear the dogs' teeth down and destroy their enamel.
    E. Bathing/Grooming/Hygiene/Ear care
    Here is a link to bathing, grooming and good oral hygiene
    If your dog does not appear to have an ear infection, it is safe to clean his ears. Preparing to Clean Your Dog’s Ears It is best to clean a dog’s ears in the bathroom, a mudroom, or another room of your home where you won’t mind a potential mess. Most dogs don’t enjoy having their ears cleaned, which means spills are inevitable. The best tools to use for cleaning your dog’s ears are a good pair of hemostats and some cotton balls. Do not use Q-tips on a dog’s ears, as they can push debris further inside the ear canal, or even damage the ear. Hemostats can be purchased at drug stores, pharmacies, or from your veterinarian. You can purchase an ear cleaning solution specifically created for pets, or you can mix one up at home. A highly recommended home ear cleaning solution is 1 part white vinegar to 1 part of water. This solution works wonders on dogs that have chronic yeast or bacterial infections in their ears. Another ear cleaning solution you can mix at home is 1 part hydrogen peroxide to 1 part water. Never use alcohol to clean your dog’s ears. Alcohol can dry out the sensitive skin inside the ears and cause allergic reactions. Ear Cleaning Techniques Start your dog’s ear cleaning with a good belly rub and soothing words. This will relax your dog and let him know that ear cleaning times are not so bad. Place a small amount of the solution in your dog’s ears, and then massage the base of the ears. At this point, your dog will want to do a head shake. Let the dog give a good shake which will help loosen debris inside the ear. Lockdown a cotton ball in the hemostat and gently use it to wipe out the inside of the ear. Repeat as often as needed, working from the inside out with a fresh cotton ball, until no more wax is seen on the cotton ball. Finish up the ear cleaning session with a treat and extra words of encouragement to help soothe your dog’s nerves.   
    F. Flea Protection
      I hate flea applications. they can kill dogs. even the 1x sample vets like to give away are killing dogs all across this country and there is a Facebook page dedicated to humans who lost their pets due to these very toxic pesticides. the ones killing the most pets right now are the pills (ingestibles) 
      PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE  ONLY use flea applications as a last resort!   Don't toxify and kill your dog  for a few measly fleas.
     Here in the Greater Seattle area, I find that applying monthly applications just lines the vets' pockets and often leads to Cancer- ITS A PESTICIDE!!
     If a dog is well-fed, healthy and their environment is clean and they are well-groomed, you should NEVER have fleas. 
    However, if you live in the countryside, you get the fleas that attack wildlife so one must take action.
    start with Blue dawn soap to kill existing fleas and bathe the dogs for 5 minutes.
    Purchase an ultrasound tag that fits on the dog's collar, it will keep fleas off your dog naturally
      Warning, Using This on Your Pet Could Cause Seizures and Tremors
    Here is an excellent article for Natural Flea Control and the use of food-grade diatomaceous earth:    



    G. Kennel Cough

    By Dr. Becker

    If your dog seems to be coughing a lot or making choking sounds, he may have a case of canine infectious tracheobronchitis, more commonly known as  kennel  cough.

    Believe it or not, as awful as the choking, hacking noises sound, most episodes of kennel cough are not serious and resolve without treatment.

    Read on by clicking the link below:


    ALSO: issues with the  Bordatella  Vaccine. Please Read:   https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2019/02/06/kennel-cough.aspx?

    Nine Safe Remedies for Kennel Cough

    1. Nosodes. A nosode is a homeopathic remedy derived from a pathological specimen. Nosodes stimulate the natural immune system to react against specific diseases. Kennel cough nosodes are particularly effective.
    2. Esberitox. This is a fast-acting Echinacea that I have found very effective in reducing the virulence of Bordetella infections. (we keep in stock at the rescue)
    3. Vitamins C and E. Vitamin C is an antiviral and E provides immune system support. (also in stock at the rescue)
    4. Oregano oil has antiseptic, antifungal, antiviral and antibacterial properties. (in stock, kept in fridge)
    5. Astragalus is an herb used in Chinese medicine to enhance the immune system, support lung function and stimulates the regeneration of bronchial cells.
    6. Raw garlic and olive leaves are natural antibacterials and antiviral agents.
    7. Raw honey will ease the discomfort of coughing, and certain herbs will soothe and naturally suppress a cough, among them licorice root and marshmallow.
    8. Essential oils can be used to help a pup with a kennel cough breathe easier. Oils of eucalyptus, lavender and tea tree have antibacterial and antiviral properties. Chamomile has a calming effect.
    9. Slippery Elm can help soothe sore and irritated throats.

    As always, you should talk with your holistic veterinarian about natural remedies and the doses or applications most appropriate for your pet

    H. Preventing Heart Disease

    5 Tips to Help Your Dog Avoid Heart Disease

    You can reduce the chance your dog will acquire heart problems by taking the following steps:

    1 Feed  a nutritionally balanced, species-appropriate diet that meets his nutritional requirements for optimal protein levels, healthy fat and coenzyme Q10. I believe the huge amount of carbohydrates found in most processed diets offsets the amount of protein dogs need, making carbs a significant nutritional contributing factor to canine heart disease.

    Additionally, the high temperatures the food is processed at inactivates the delicate fatty acids, so even though the label says it contains the correct amount of essential fatty acids to maintain excellent cardiovascular health, they've been inactivated through the manufacturing process.

    The amount of taurine, carnitine, critical amino acids and CoQ10 found naturally in unprocessed meat is extremely important to your dog’s heart health. These vital nutrients are not found in adequate quantities in most dry foods, and processing further diminishes their bioavailability. This is another reason I recommend starch-free foods (no grains or potatoes).

    If you feed dry or canned food, I recommend supplementing with coenzyme Q10 in the form of ubiquinol. Ubiquinol is the form of CoQ10 that is best utilized by the heart, and the only form I have found to be effective in slowing progression and preventing the expression of predispositions in pets.

    If your pet tests positive for heart disease biomarkers I recommend 10mg of ubiquinol per pound of body weight once daily and if your dog has symptoms, provide it twice daily. I also recommend additional marine sources of omega-3 fatty acids (krill oil), especially if you have a dog that may be predisposed to cardiovascular disease. Supplying your pet with extra CoQ10 (the reduced form) can  ensure  he has the quantity his body needs to maintain a healthy heart muscle.

    2 Help  your dog maintain a lean, fit body with daily exercise appropriate for his age, health,  and  physical condition.

    3 Take  excellent care of his dental health. Bacteria from dirty doggy (and human) mouths has been linked to heart valve infections.

    4 Talk  to your holistic or integrative veterinarian about cardiovascular support supplements such as ubiquinol, amino acids (taurine, L-arginine and acetyl L-carnitine), hawthorn berries, d-ribose, TMG heart  glandulars , and homeopathic and TCM formulas that specifically fit your pet’s symptoms.

    5 Finally , ask your veterinarian for a proBNP blood test, which is a simple blood test that detects early signs of heart disease. If you have a Dobie or a Boxer, also request the Doberman DCM test or the Boxer ARVC test.

    IWorming and Parasite Control
    A. Since puppies can contract worms from their moms and should be treated regularly while they are young, Here is a cost-saving worming treatment, so you are not always running to your vet and spending money on an office visit and new medicines.  
    Please note. You should get a fecal at least Four times in the first year of your puppies life so you can treat any parasites or hard to kill microscopic worms that may require special medicines, as well as kill hatching eggs and larvaeWhy? Because puppies have not built up an immunity to these invaders and can develop infections in the gut that can KILL THEM! And we have lost puppies at the rescue to infections caused by parasites :(
    Do them 2x or more a year thereafter.
    This de-wormer has the same ingredient that the wormer your vet will provide, the added bonus is it will kill Giardia as well. You can find this at any feed store (country store) that supplies meds and supplies to farmers, ranchers and hobby farmers. (Please note: Your vet does not want you to know this and may discourage you from the profit they will lose)
    It is called SafeGuard, Ask a store clerk for the GOAT WORMER-SafeGuard, get a syringe with measurements on it. 0.1, 0.2 etc..
    then dose the puppies and dogs  at  1.2ML per 5 pounds for 5 days straight.   (The instructions on the back of the bottle is for goats, not dogs)
    Treatment plan:  1x a day for 5 days to kill all worms, including round and tapeworms as well as Giardia. then in 14 days, treat again for 5 days.
    then 1x a month after that until they are grown.  As adults treat 4x a year for maintenance.  This product is very safe to use on your dogs. keep in the refrigerator. 
    One bottle will go a long way unless you have multiple dogs, but do treat everyone in the house. 
    SafeGuard costs about $26.00 at the store or $23.00 online at  http://www.revivalanimal.com   or www.amazon.com
    This product is less expensive than 1 treatment the vet will give you of their powdered Panacur, which has to be mixed into wet food and the dog has to eat the entire amount of food to get all of the meds. Safeguard is easier, effective and cheap.
    B. Puppies should be given a fecal by your vet,  3-4 times their first year, while young to be sure you don't have Coccidia. There are no real over the counter ways to control Coccidia. Your vet will give you Albon, and you may need to treat 3-4 times to get all of this parasite. It can be deadly to your puppy as it causes an infection in the gut. SO YES, Please DO FECAL EXAMS to control these:

    Common Intestinal Parasites

    • ROUNDWORMS: Look like spaghetti in the stool. Cause vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, distended abdomen. In dogs and cats, especially young animals.
    • HOOKWORMS: Rarely seen in the stool. Cause blood loss, diarrhea (bloody), anorexia, vomiting. In dogs and cats.
    • WHIPWORMS: Rarely seen in the stool. Cause diarrhea (bloody), anorexia, weight loss, depression. Usually detected in dogs > 4 months of age, rarely seen in cats.
    • TAPEWORMS: Usually seen in the stool, around the anus, or on bedding. Looks like grains of rice. Segments are cream-colored, but after dying and drying are more orange/brown. Fairly non-pathogenic in animals, but some species can be transmitted to humans. Animals get tapeworms by ingesting fleas and/or rodents. Segments shed every 2-3 months, so the animal may have no apparent infection. Generally only recommend treating if segments are seen because the treatment is quite expensive and the worms are relatively non-pathogenic to the animal. Panacur and Strongid will NOT kill tapeworms.
    • COCCIDIA: Protozoal parasite which can cause diarrhea, failure to thrive, and rarely, but occasionally, death. Treated with Albon (Sulfadimethoxine). Diagnosed via a fecal float. Most common and debilitating in young animals < 6 months old. Dewormers do NOT kill coccidia. Source of an organism is the environment. Once the environment is contaminated, it is extremely difficult to get rid of coccidia.
    • GIARDIA: Protozoal parasite which can cause symptoms ranging from no clinical signs to mild diarrhea, to vomiting, severe diarrhea, and dehydration. Infection is by the oral route, usually from contaminated water. Diagnosed with a direct fecal exam. Treated with Flagyl (metronidazole). Maybe an inapparent infection for a long time, then some environmental stress may trigger symptoms. Difficult to get out of the environment once it is present.
    I agree with new research and many caring vets who feel that Veterinary Medicine is now being controlled by big Pharma for profits and we are over-vaccinating our animals to the injury, illness, and death of our pets, so vets/pharma can reap more profits.
    Please understand, we believe in vaccinating your pets. but did you know? The DHPP vaccination vets attempt to give an owners pets YEARLY, are actually good for up to 8 years?   I have had many a rescue dog succumb to reactions to vaccinations and I believe in a cautious approach now.
    These articles are a must-read about over-vaccinating: 

    2017 AAHA Canine Core Vaccination Recommendations  By Dr. Karen Shaw Becker

    Combination vaccine to include Canine Distemper (CDV) + Canine Parvo (CPV-2) + Canine Adenovirus (CAV-2) + (optional) Canine Parainfluenza Virus ( CPiV )

    Initial vaccination in puppies up to 16 weeks of age: Starting as early as 6 weeks, administer combo vaccine every two to four weeks up to at least 16 weeks. Dogs in high-risk environments may benefit from a final dose at 18 to 20 weeks.

    Initial vaccination in dogs over 16 weeks of age: Administer one or two combo vaccines. Dogs between 16 and 20 weeks living in high-risk environments may benefit from two combo shots two to four weeks apart. Revaccination: Administer a booster no later than one year after completion of initial series or dose, then every three years or longer thereafter.

    Rabies 1-year and 3-year

    Initial vaccination should be one dose no earlier than 12 weeks of age. The first revaccination for all dogs must be within one year of initial vaccination, regardless of whether the 1-year or 3-year vaccine was given. As required by law, subsequent revaccinations must be given either every year for the 1-year vaccine or every three years for the 3-year vaccine.

    The Canine Vaccine Protocol I Recommend By Naturopathic Veterinarian-Dr. Becker

    My protocol is to administer the first round of distemper, parvo, and adenovirus (no parainfluenza) before 12 weeks of age, usually around 9 to 10 weeks. I give the second round between 15 and 16 weeks. Two weeks after the second round, I titer to insure the dog has been immunized and not just vaccinated. When it comes to rabies, I prefer to give the first vaccine at six months, and then as required by law, a booster one year later and every three years thereafter.

    How to Determine If Your Dog Needs a Non-Core Vaccine

    As mentioned above, Dr. Becker does not typically recommend non-core vaccines, which include Bordetella, Leptospira, Borrelia burgdorferi (Lyme), canine influenza viruses H3N8 and H3N2 and Crotalus atrox (western diamond rattlesnake ). The AAHA has developed a  Lifestyle-Based Vaccine Calculator  to help veterinarians and dog parents determine what non-cores, if any, should be given. In my opinion, each vaccine your dog receives should meet the following criteria:

    • First, your dog should be healthy. If he has allergies, endocrine issues, organ dysfunction, cancer (or is a cancer survivor) or another medical issue he's not a candidate to receive vaccines
    • The vaccine is for a life-threatening disease (this eliminates most non-cores immediately).
    • Your dog has the opportunity to be exposed to the disease.
    • The vaccine is considered both effective and safe (most aren't, especially the bacterins).
    • Your dog has never had an adverse reaction to a vaccine. Do not vaccinate a pet that has had a previous vaccine reaction of any kind.

    If you do vaccinate your pet, ask your holistic veterinarian to provide a homeopathic vaccine detox such as Thuja (a common choice for all vaccines except rabies).

    It's also important to realize that several non-core vaccines are only available in combination with other vaccines, some of which are core. I recommend you check with your vet to ensure none of the non-core vaccines are being piggy-backed on core vaccines your pet receives.

    Unfortunately, most traditional vets do not carry single vaccines, so it's a good idea to ask to see the vaccine vial before assuming your pet is only receiving one agent at a time.

    Titer Tests Are Finally Going Mainstream

    For the first time ever (to my knowledge), in these latest vaccination guidelines, the AAHA admits titer tests are used to check a dog's immunity to distemper, parvo, and adenovirus. Hallelujah! Per the guidelines:

    "Measuring antibody levels (quantitative or qualitative) provides a reasonable assessment of protective immunity against CDV, CPV, and CAV2."

    And from the AAHA website page titled "Antibody Testing Versus Vaccination:"

    "The demand for and availability of antibody testing (both qualitative and quantitative) for canine vaccine-preventable diseases has increased substantially over the past decade." 2

    And finally, from the pet owner section of the website on the canine vaccination guidelines page:

    "Titers, or quantitative antibody testing, can help determine your dog's protection from some diseases. Titer testing can be used when a dog's vaccination history for distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus is unknown — a positive result typically means he is considered protected.

    However, no test is 100 [percent] accurate, so in areas where these diseases run rampant, your veterinarian may still recommend vaccinating. While titer testing for rabies is available, the law still requires that the dog is vaccinated since this is a fatal, zoonotic (i.e., can be spread to people) disease." 3

    Interestingly, passionate pet parents and proactive vets in other parts of the world have developed much more progressive titering protocols that I hope one day we can institute in North America. In the Netherlands and Belgium, for instance, many vets titer puppies and kittens before their first vaccines to determine if there are maternal antibodies present.

    This allows the animals to receive one perfectly timed vaccine. These animals are titered four weeks later to assure they were adequately immunized.

    Integrative vets in this country understand convincing clients to titer once after young animals have received their initial vaccines has taken many years to accomplish. Convincing owners to titer before and after a vaccine is absolutely the best medicine but may prove to be a difficult protocol to institute for economic reasons.

    Let's hope the demand for titer tests continues to increase among pet parents, along with access to affordable testing. The great news is Dr. John Robb has arranged for rabies, parvo and distemper titer package for $55 (that you can submit yourself if your vet won't do it)!

    If your own vet isn't offering titers at a reasonable cost, shop around. Any veterinarian truly concerned about the health of pets should happily offer affordable titer testing in lieu of automatic revaccination.

    Questions to Ask About Every Vaccine Your Vet Recommends

    • Is your dog or cat healthy? If he has allergies, endocrine issues, organ dysfunction, cancer (or is a cancer survivor) or another medical issue he's not a candidate to receive vaccines.
    • Is the vaccine is for a life-threatening disease (this eliminates most  noncore  immediately)?
    • Does your pet have the opportunity to be exposed to the disease?
    • Is the vaccine considered both effective and safe (most aren't, especially the bacterins )?
    • Has your pet ever had an adverse reaction to a vaccine? Do not vaccinate a pet that has had a previous vaccine reaction of any kind.

    Understand that several noncore vaccines are only available in combination with other vaccines, some of which are core. I recommend you check with your vet to  ensure  none of the noncore vaccines are being piggybacked on core vaccines your pet receives. Unfortunately, most traditional vets do not carry single vaccines, so it's a good idea to ask to see the vaccine vial before assuming your pet is only receiving one agent at a time. 

    Two Big, Common Mistakes Made With Rabies Vaccine

    A Bit about Coccidia: What you need to know:

    Coccidia, or coccidiosis, in dogs is often treated with a drug called Albon. This protozoal infection is the most prevalent and opportunistic intestinal disease in North America. Dogs in kennels are the most susceptible to acquiring this disease, so the use of Albon to help prevent it is recommended.

    Coccidia Explained

    The coccidia disease is spread through different types of protozoa  parasites . Some dogs that acquire coccidia deal with the infection with great ease and little noticeable symptoms. Other dogs, however, become very ill and sometimes even die from coccidia because of  how  quickly the parasites multiply within the intestines.

    Coccidia  affects  the intestines so a dog may have watery diarrhea with traces of blood. In more severe cases, a dog's diarrhea will contain blood and mucus, and the dog will strain to relieve himself. Dehydration often accompanies diarrhea along with  weight loss  and a loss of appetite. Some of the parasites that can cause coccidia can even form small tumors in the intestinal walls. When coccidia affects a dog's nervous system, a dog may have convulsions and muscle tremors.

    The sooner coccidia is treated, the better the prognosis for a dog. If left untreated, secondary infections such as pneumonia can develop along with permanent damage to the body.

    Treating Coccidia in Dogs with Albon (Sulfadimethoxine)

    The first method  to  treating most dog diseases is with prevention. With this in mind, a veterinarian may recommend that a pet owner  give  a dog Albon to help prevent coccidia if he will be in a kennel for a period of time. Sulfadimethoxine products can be purchased as a pill, injection, or oral suspension product.

    Albon is a low-dose medication that's quickly absorbed into a dog's body and contains a long-lasting sulfonamide. The sulfadimethoxine within Albon is a bacteriostatic agent, which doesn't allow the parasites to create folic acid from para-aminobenzoic acids. Unlike other animals, when a dog takes Albon, the sulfadimethoxine isn't acetylated and the medication goes through his body unchanged. To ensure coccidia treatment through the use of Albon is successful, a dog should be given this medicine soon after the infection is discovered so he can gain a high sulfonamide level in his body quickly. The infected dog needs to take Albon throughout the whole course of the infection and even for some time afterwardThe length of time which a dog takes Albon depends on the dog's response to the therapy. Typically, a dog will take this medication for about 14 days, until he is asymptomatic for at least 48 hours. However, it is advised that a pet owner administer all of the medication prescribed to a dog that is ill with coccidia so the infection doesn't return. Also, a dog that’s taking Albon for the treatment of coccidia should drink a lot of water so crystals don't form in his urine.

    Coccidia is an opportunistic infection that can turn deadly in some dogs quickly. If a dog displays gastrointestinal symptoms, he should be taken to a veterinary clinic so he can be prescribed Albon as soon as possible if he's diagnosed with coccidia.


    5.   Disease prevention
    Infections/diseases and vaccinations to discuss with your vet. Protect your dog
    Parvovirus -  Despite there being a vaccine for this, many un-vaccinated dogs succumb to this disease. This attacks the gastrointestinal tract and the  immune  system, causing severe vomiting and diarrhea. It is spread via direct contact with an infected dog or via the feces of an infected dog. Proper cleaning methods of the environment of dogs with Parvo and keeping up on vaccinations can prevent a dog/puppy from catching this very contagious and often fatal disease.
    Distemper -  As with parvo, there is a vaccine for this. Distemper is a highly contagious infection of the respiratory and/or gastrointestinal tract. It begins with weakness and coughing. As it progresses a dog may develop diarrhea. In later stages, it attacks the dog's central nervous system, including the brain and spinal cord. The dog may have seizures, paralysis before dying. Keeping your Dog/puppy vaccinated - with all puppy shots and boosters ( 1x every 7-8 years for Distemper
    Leptospirosis -  There are many strains of leptospirosis (including tick disease) and not all dogs that catch this die from it. However, it can cause fatal liver and kidney damage. Most strains of fatal strains of leptospirosis are spread via the urine of wild animals. This includes raccoon, skunks, and rats. Dogs can catch this when drinking from contaminated water; though it can also spread via sniffing of infection in urine puddles.
    There are 2 ways to prevent this:
    1) By not allowing a dog to go near the urine of wild animals or drink from any water source that an animal may have urinated into
    2) Vaccination - This is a bit tricky because in the U.S. this is not included in standard  vaccinations . The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) considers leptospirosis vaccine a “non-core”. This means that it is only recommended for dogs that have a high chance of exposure. In addition, some breeds tend to not react well to this particular inoculation. (Chihuahuas)  It is up to owners to discuss this with the veterinarian and decide if there is enough wildlife near the home to warrant having the vaccine.
    Sepsis -  This refers to septic shock which is a severe infection in the body. Without treatment, it can cause acute kidney failure, liver failure and/or acute respiratory distress syndrome. Even with proper treatment, only roughly 40% of dogs survive.
    There are many causes of sepsis, including prostatic infection, pneumonia and bacterial infection of the heart. However, with the Chihuahua breed, the one that owners will want to be concerned about is a blood infection. This breed is highly susceptible to tooth decay. When a tooth becomes infected and is not treated, the infection can spread throughout the body, leading to sepsis.